005 – Old Fashioned

A ‘lock-down’ re-imagined version of the famous Old Fashioned cocktail.

Sydney’s Covid Lockdown has inspired me to take this simple cocktail back to its roots and add a little change of my own. Here is the resulting recipe and some background.

Make your own ‘Locktail’ Old Fashioned. Here is the recipe:

METHOD — Infuse sugar-cube with 4-dashes of Bitters and a bar-spoon (5ml) of water. After a short time, muddle the sugar into a gritty syrup, this can all be done in the base of the glass. Add a large ice cube or sphere and 60ml (2-shots) of quality Bourbon. Garnish with a piece of Orange Rind and an optional Maraschino Cocktail Cherry.

HISTORICAL NOTES – The ‘Old Fashioned’ is another inclusion in the International Bartenders Association (IBA) classic ‘Unforgettables’ list that is limited to 33-cocktails. There are some very strong opinions on how an ‘Old Fashioned’ should be made, from Rye or Bourbon purists, to those that feel more fruit should be added. Regardless, the ‘Old Fashioned’ has a very strong connection to the history of Cocktail culture.

The word ‘Cocktail’ only appeared in the early 1800’s in respect of mixed-drinks rather than equine matters. Although the exact origin is debated, in one instance in 1806, the New York journalist Harry Croswell was asked by a number or readers to define his use of the world ‘Cocktail’. His response in print on 13 May 1806, was the definition “a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters”. Basically the description of what is now know as an ‘Old Fashioned’.

As the 1800’s progressed, cocktails included available ingredients, for example absinthe, orange curacao, vermouths, cognac and all matter of bitters, tinctures and syrups. It also became commonplace to add fruit segments. Ice was a luxury item and not commonly included within a drinking glass. Towards the later part of the 1800’s, cocktails like the ‘Old Fashioned’ were in demand, with aficionados hearkening back to simpler cocktails that celebrated their whiskey and core spirit preferences. Although there are competing histories arguing the exact origin of the ‘Old Fashioned’, it is described in George Kappeler’s 1895 book, Modern American Drinks, as the perfect Old Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail. His recipe was to, “dissolve a small lump of sugar with a little water in a whiskey-glass; add two dashes Angostura bitters, a small piece of ice, a piece of lemon-peel, one jigger whiskey. Mix with small bar-spoon and serve, leaving spoon in glass.”

The contemporary demand for the ‘Old Fashioned’ was given a boost by Don Draper in the popular television series ‘Mad Men’ as his drink of choice and the focal point of many scenes in the show.

THE OFFICIAL MIX – The IBA ‘Old Fashioned’ version is here. It is 45ml Bourbon or Rye Whiskey, 1 Sugar Cube, a few dashes of water, and a few dashes of Angostura Bitters.Garnished with orange slice or zest and a cocktail cherry.

TASTING NOTES – The ‘Old Fashioned’ is first and foremost a celebration of Whiskey. So whether your preference is for Rye Whiskey following the early 1800’s or Bourbon for those in the early 1900’s reminiscing about simpler, purer cocktails, or other Whiskey choices, this cocktail needs a good quality base spirit. Beyond that, it aims to sweeten the drink and add bitter notes. This makes for a cocktail that is ‘easier drinking’ than straight whiskey, while keeping the flavour profile of the central spirit.

LOCKTAIL CHANGES – I have made this fifth Sydney Covid Lockdown Cocktail – Locktail – a homage to the late 1800s and early 1900s, and a celebration of simpler cocktails. I have selected to use Bourbon instead of Rye Whiskey, as the whole essence of this Cocktail is a ‘reminiscent remake’, not an ‘actual original’, and most of the remakes would have used the spirit of the day – Bourbon. Bourbon also has a sweeter profile that melds better with the sugar cube inclusion in my option. It’s 1753 heritage is certainly worthy of including in an Old Fashioned. Aged for 8-years and with a high alcohol content (over 45%), it has the right sweetness, caramel and mellow flavours, and alcohol hit to suit a perfect ‘Old Fashioned’.

I am also keeping the ‘Sugar Cube’. Although many old cocktails used syrups, one of the joys of an ‘Old Fashioned’ is the ‘sugar grit’. The sweetness increasing as you progress through the drink, the constant stirring or swirling that is part of the experience, and that last gritty sugar hit at the end of the drink. That is a fundamental for an Old Fashioned and sets it apart from other similar cocktails.

Finally the Bitters. Use Angostura Bitters if you want, most ‘Old Fashioned’ cocktails of today do. It is certainly appropriate, having been founded in 1824 and with a rich history in the USA from the 1850’s and dominance in bar culture from the 1900s. For me, I still find that Agnostura blends better with Rum than Whiskey. The ‘Old Fashioned’ was most likely hearkening back to Broker’s or Abbott’s bitters which both meld well with Rye Whiskey. The US Fee Brothers of Rochester, New York, established in 1863 make an ‘Old Fashioned Aromatic Bitters’, however for me, an even better ‘Old Fashioned’ is served by their ‘Black Walnut Bitters’, the combination is amazing and my twist on this classic cocktail recipe. It is readily available and other Bitter manufacturers like Honest John Bitters also make a Black Walnut blend.

YOUR LOCKTAIL EXPERIENCE – If you’d rather taste than read, I am progressively building an ingredient list and other sourcing information on this site. I will re-use ingredients where I can (good for my budget too), so that the cost goes down overtime if you are ‘playing at home’.

Let me know what you think.

Cocktails you’d like reinvented.

Recipes you’ve tried and your ‘score’.

Coming up soon, more cocktails from the 1800s – the forward list is here. Or take a look at the previous ones, the Manhattan, the Jimmy McCollins, the Americano and the Sazerac.