On 13 May 1806, when New York journalist Harry Croswell defined the world ‘Cocktail’ for readers as “a stimulating liquor, composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters”, he was outlining a flavour profile of what it is to be a ‘cocktail’.
Whether this is three, five, or eight flavour profiles (sweet, sour, bitter, salty, spicy, umami, astringent, alcohol) or more, one flavour profile is always in the cocktail designer’s mix … Bitter.

HISTORY OF BITTERS
Nature has been producing bitter flavours, and we have been tasting them, as an evolutionary warning since before any recorded history.
The Egyptians were known to use bitters in jars of wine more than 5,000 years ago. The practice developed throughout the world in the quest for pharmaceutical substances and medicinal products, as well as in cooking, digestives and beverages.
Our evolutionary warning, that bitterness could be poison, has the intriguing counterpoint that it may also be medicinal.

The history of ‘Bitters’ includes outrageous claims as ‘cure-alls’ and any other sales-pitch you can think of. The US 1906 ‘Pure Food and Drug Act’ and other similar legislation in other parts of the world, helped end crazy medicinal claims. Leaving these products for their best use, producing amazing tasting cocktails.
BRANDS OF BITTERS
The best known brand of bitters is undoubtedly ‘Angostura‘. In 1824, Dr Johann Siegert first produced aromatic bitters claimed to alleviate stomach ailments. In the 1850s they were imported to the USA and their journey followed the golden age of the ‘cocktail’.

Bitters were impacted by the 1906 Pure Food and Drug Act, and then almost wiped out by the US Prohibition era (1920 – 1933). Of the hundreds of brands only a few made it through including Agnostura, Peychauds and Fee Brothers.
Since the late 1900’s and early 2000’s, there has been a renaissance in bitters. Old stalwarts like Abbott’s and Boker’s have been re-made, along with whole new ranges of contemporary bitters.
COCKTAIL CHOICES
What bitters you need depends on what cocktails you want to make. Here are just a few:
Angostura Aromatic – the ‘go to’ bitters for so many cocktails and the first needed in any cocktail makers repository.
Peychauds – for Sazerac and Vieux Carré
Boker’s Bitters (remade by Dr Adam Elmegirab) – for any Jerry Thomas cocktail from his 1862 book, How to Mix Drinks or The Bon Vivant’s Companion, especially the Martinez.
Celery Bitters – perfect for a Bloody Mary.
I’ll add some other’s here as they get added to the ‘Lock-tail’ recipes.
Fee Brothers – Rhubarb Bitters, Aztec Chocolate Bitters, and Black Walnut Bitters.
Mister Bitters – Honeyed Apricot and Smoked Hickory Bitters.
In other good news, Bitters generally last a very long time (unlike some other ingredients like Vermouth), so you can keep a range of flavours for use.
THE FULL LIST
Peychaud’s Bitters (Cocktails 001, #042)
Mister Bitters – Honeyed Apricot and Smoked Hickory (Cocktail 001)
Campari Bitters (Cocktails 002, 011, 021, 040)
Fee Brothers – Rhubarb Bitters (Cocktails 002, 003, 022, 045)
Amaro Montenegro (Cocktail 004)
Fee Brothers – Aztec Chocolate Bitters (Cocktails 004, 007)
Fee Brothers – Black Walnut Bitters (Cocktails 005, 028, 044)
Angostura Orange Bitters (Cocktails 007, 011, 045)
Angostura Bitters (Cocktails 010, 042, 057, 059)
Amargo Chuncho Bitters (Cocktail 012)
Bittermens’ Transatlantic Modern Aromatic Bitters (Cocktail 012)
Regans’ Orange Bitters No.6 (Cocktails 015, 025, 034, 048, 054)
Fernet Branca (Cocktail 019)
DOM Bénédictine (Cocktails 022, 042)
Aperol (Cocktail 030)
Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Bokers Bitters (Cocktails 031, 048)
The Bitter Truth – Celery Bitters (Cocktail 032, 064)
Bittermens’ – Hellfire Habanero Shrub (Cocktails 032, 053, 064)
WHERE TO GET BITTERS?
Only Bitters (Australia) https://www.onlybitters.com/
The Bitters Lab (Melbourne) https://www.thebitterslab.com.au/
Awesome Drinks (USA) https://awesomedrinks.com/
Also good cocktail ingredient shops (generally lesser range) such as Dan Murphys in Australia and Sydney’s Oak Barrel.
